How To Choose A Signet Ring

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The signet ring is a classic piece of jewellery that many people want to have in their collection. While traditionally worn by men, signet rings are now a popular accessory for all genders. The general style is the same in all signet rings but there are differences in shape, style and design which you need to think about when choosing your piece.

Whether you’re looking for a signet ring to wear every day or something as a gift for a special occasion, it’s important you choose the right one. If you’re not entirely sure what to look for then this guide is for you.

What Is A Signet Ring?

A signet ring is a traditional piece of jewellery that is typically worn on the pinky finger of the right hand. These rings have a large face onto which a design is usually engraved. Traditionally speaking, this engraving would be a family crest or some other personal and unique design since the rings were worn by men as an identifier when signing important documents.

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Things To Consider When Buying A Signet Ring

There are plenty of options when it comes to signet rings which is great because it means that there is a design for everyone. Even though they were originally worn only by men, the variety today means that everyone can choose a beautiful, meaningful signet ring that will likely become a family heirloom.

Shape

One of the biggest decisions when choosing a signet ring is the shape. The reason that this is so important is because the shape of the ring dictates how easy it is to engrave.

The most popular shape is the Oxford oval which allows enough space for almost any engraving you would like. However, there are other oval styles including the landscape oval which is perfect if your engraving design is slightly wider than it is in height.

Of course, some people want to veer away from the classic design and opt for something more modern. In this case, you might choose a marquise shape which is an elegant diamond design, ideal for women. However, you should keep in mind that there isn’t as much space to engrave the ring.

The cushion signet ring is a more heavy take on the Oxford oval and has become a popular choice, especially for men. The head is a lot more square than the Oxford oval and the sides are bowed;
overall, it looks a lot more defined.

Finally, there are round signet rings which give a softer look and that many consider to be a more modern option compared to the Oxford oval.

While choosing the shape based on your engraving is essential, I’d also recommend thinking about your personal style. The more your jewellery fits in with this, the more wear you’ll get out of it.

Size

Signet ring size is such a crucial thing to think about when buying your jewellery. The last thing you want to do is choose something that’s far too large for your hands and that looks bulky or over the top. On the other hand, you don’t want to choose a ring that’s so small it doesn’t make the impact it’s supposed to.

I would recommend trying on different sized rings to get a feel for how they look and what looks best on your hand. Moreover, you should think about which finger you will be wearing the ring on;
generally speaking, the larger the finger, the bigger the ring head needs to be.

There is some debate over which is the correct finger to wear your signet ring on but tradition has all but gone out of the window. Yes, there are many people that still wear their signet rings on their right pinky but there’s no rule regarding this. So, choose a finger that suits your personal style and then start thinking about size.

Type Of Metal

Another essential aspect to consider when choosing your signet ring is which precious metal you’ll go for.

Gold

A lot of people go for gold but you have to remember that pure gold is far too soft to be made into a ring on its own. Instead, it needs to be mixed with other metals in order to create a material that’s robust enough to withstand day to day use.

This is where the carat system comes in and this tells you how much pure gold has been used in the alloy. The higher the carat, the more gold is in the mix. For example, 9 carat gold contains 375 parts gold per 1000 whereas 18 carat gold contains 750 parts gold per 1000.

If you choose a higher carat then this will mean that the material is softer but that doesn’t mean that the ring won’t stand the test of time. What’s more, you should consider that as the carats get higher, the colour of the gold is deeper and richer which is something to think about in terms of appearance.

As well as regular yellow gold, there are other versions including white gold and rose gold. These materials are made in the same way but different alloys are added to alter the colour. For example,
with white gold, things like silver and palladium might be added whereas with rose gold, copper is added.

Platinum

Platinum is a very popular metal for signet rings and many other types of jewellery. However, you should consider that it is more expensive owing to the fact that it’s so heavy and durable.

If you are buying a signet ring for sentimental reasons then you’re going to want a material that will withstand anything and this is why platinum is often a top choice. It won’t ever discolour and will maintain a scratch-free appearance for life.

Another reason that platinum is ideal for signet rings is that it is hypoallergenic. Many people have a sensitivity to some of the alloys used in gold, meaning they are unable to wear it but this won’t be a problem with platinum.

Silver

Silver is the least valuable of all the precious metals and is actually a by-product from the refinement process of other metals like gold, zinc, and copper.

It’s worth keeping in mind that, while silver is a durable material, it is more likely to tarnish easily compared to other metals. However, a lot of people like the colour and appearance of silver and if it is properly cared for, it will last a lifetime.

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Precious Stones

Not all signet rings feature a precious stone, some are made only from metal. However, if you want to make the appearance of your ring even more unique then adding a stone is a great way to do this. Keep in mind that there are a whole host of different coloured stones to choose from but some will be more valuable than others depending on their rarity and quality.

While I couldn’t possibly do a deep dive into all of the options for a signet ring stone, let me explain in brief some of the most popular choices.

  • Onyx is a deep black stone that is incredibly popular on platinum signet rings thanks to how well the colours contrast. It was popular in art deco jewellery as well as in the ancient Roman times.
  • Bloodstone is another dark coloured stone that has a deep green hue, often flecked with red. It’s been a popular choice in jewellery for centuries and it’s ideal for engraving because of how hard it is.
  • Carnelian is another stone that makes a great engraving candidate and is a deep reddish/orange colour that’s always been popular for signet rings. What’s more, it matches the colour of all precious metals.
  • Lapis lazuli is a royal blue coloured stone that’s been popular in Middle Eastern jewellery for many years. It’s a great choice for platinum or silver signet rings but also looks beautiful set in 18 carat gold.
  • In Roman times, garnet was a popular choice of signet ring stone. While these stones do come in various colours, the most common is a deep red which offers a stunning and eye catching appearance.
  • Amethyst is a good choice if you’re looking for a signet ring with a carved gem. However, it isn’t such a good option if you want to have your ring engraved. As a fashion statement, this beautiful purple stone has been used for more than 4000 years!

Additional Help In Choosing A Signet Ring

While the above information gives you a great starting point to choosing the best signet ring for you, I understand that you may have further questions. After all, this is a piece of jewellery that’s going to be with you for life so you need to make sure it’s perfect.

At City of London Jewellers, we have a team of experts that are ready and waiting to help you make the right decision. If you have any questions or would like to know more about our range of signet rings and engraving service, please don’t hesitate to get in touch and we would be delighted to help.

 

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Metal
Precious Metal
Metal Purity
Carat
Gemstone Colour
Gemstone Colour
Ring Size
Ring Size